Saege
emenu
Meine Zersägten Kameras
6x14 Roll Film Back for Plaubel Peco Junior 
6x14 Wide Angle Camera
35mm Panoramic Camera
mFT Adapter with iris for Pentax Auto 110 Lenses 
Stereo Camera made from two 35mm Cameras
Kiev EF - Russian "Rangefinder" with EF mount
Cosina Stereo K - Stereo SLR with Pentax mount
Rolleicord Stereo - my TriLR
Classic Rolleiflex with modern meter
Mamiya 6,3/50 adapted to Graflex Century Graphic
Wistamiya DIY Hybrid
Rollei 35 feeling on the Sony A7
More weird lens adaptations to the Sony A7R(II)
Wistamiya II  - Hasselblad SWC's poor relative
Rolleiflex SL 2000 with digital back „SWVS“
Old projector lenses on Sony A7RII
Under construction
Know How
Other "odd" cameras
Rudolf Keller Photography, 1925 – 1942
Links
Contact / About

Scanning – or not? Practical advice for the reproduction of analogue images

Why anyway?

Good question, n‘est-ce pas? Why does one have to obtain digital data files from analogue (film) material? Didn’t things go well without that for many decades? And even if one does not adhere to the pessimistic line of thinking that digital will last less long than analogue data, the products of analogue photography have proven to be of decent quality for 190 years now. And there is no reason to believe this will change soon, at least for the black and white variety.

On the contrary, processing a digital image to a final product often means printing, and I’d think there are still valid question marks behind the long term durability of these prints.

And also, I am no historian. I do have fun looking at the pictures of my parents and grandparents, but not more. The future of mankind does not depend on these pictures, certainly not. So, if color slides fade after twenty years – so be it, my memory fades as well.

But, whoever wants to use digital ways of image presentation, who wants to view them on computer screens, TVs and with beamers, cannot avoid digitalization. And yes, who wishes to stop the decease of old family vacation pictures also has no choice.

 

A matter of choice

A couple of factors come into play when choosing the right method, some of which are very personal, so that eventually one method may be just right for one person and plain wrong for another. I have myself tried out most ways and maybe this indeed is the only way to decide. Maybe it is plain impossible to give advice in the context of such an article, I don’t know.

But since I am asked every now and then, I will at least try.

 

The joy of using a computer

This may well be one of those personal factors.  The amount of computer work the different methods bring with them is grossly different and this may either spoil the day (week) for one, while another person spends the day in front of the computer anyway and even pulls satisfaction from the scanning work, in that it makes him feel he is creative … sort of.

I personally would rather spend less time in front of the screen, where I already spend most of my working hours. To me, image processing is annoying as such - will nevertheless try to assess the effort needed.


Resolution as a fetish – what do we really need?

Extracting the very last detail out of an analogue image requires an extensive amount of time, money and effort and also yields enormous data files for further processing. One reason is that even one single film grain must not be seen as a digital entity. Instead, the representation of film grain influences the quality of the resulting digital image. So if all of a film image is to be captured, much more than the actual analogue resolution is needed in the recording medium.

This is even more pronounced with smaller film formats (e.g. 35mm), offering reduced resolution because of their smaller area. I would not want to dive into the discussion just how high 35mm resolution can possibly be in the ideal world. What can be said though is that here, the final output may indeed show the limited resolution of the input, so that one should be careful not to throw away quality while scanning.

What can be done, can be seen here 

http://forum.digitalfotonetz.de/viewtopic.php?t=71236&highlight=scannertest

and here

http://aphog.de/forum/index.php/Thread/23212-Scannervergleiche-am-praktischen-Bild-Diskussionsthread/.

In both comparisons, the collective intelligence of the photographic community was used, which seems more appropriate to me than relying on individual web sites like www.filmscanner.info (this one being even more suspect for their permanent recommendation of the dreadful Silverfast software).

On the other hand, the resolution the image offers from the beginning is not needed most of the time, be it for moderately sized prints or beamer projection or whatever.

So a person who, even after serious questioning, still maintains that he is not interested in extracting more from an old slide than is necessary to produce a 4x5” print or a “Full HD” screen image, can save a lot of effort. 

However, this self-limitation needs to hold up in future as well. Who cannot rule out the possibility that at one point in the future his expectation may be different, should prepare for this today, especially if thousands of analogue images are waiting to be reproduced.

If, for example, a scanning project met the world standard “Full HD” (1920 x 1080) resolution ten years ago, the resulting images fill only a quarter of a 4K TV screen today, and who has such slide shows can call himself lucky if the raw data supports 4K and only requires him to compile the slide shows again. If not, he has to start all over again (while the old slides have faded even more in the meantime).

Or maybe, he doesn’t care at all and still loves his pictures, which is just as well.

 

Scratches, dust, color casts - and color negatives

Depending on how prominent they are on the source material, these issues can determine which method is to be used.  Also, who has many color negatives will in the end select an off-the-shelf scanner with adequate software, with which the de-masking of the negatives and the conversion to a positive can be done more or less automatic. This can be done manually as well and the steps to be performed can be standardized, but the effort is much higher still.

The same goes for scratches, dust and color casts. Scanners can correct these easily and with impressive results. The exception is scratches, which cannot be corrected automatically on black and white (silver) film and on Kodachrome slides. 

On the other hand, somebody only planning to shoot an occasional film will probably take slide film which, fresh from the developing agent, will show no color cast nor scratches and hardly any dust.

 

Numbers

This may also be a deciding factor. When I started reproducing images, I had almost 11.000 slides in front of me and I still have many negatives to look at. Such quantities can only be coped with as a pensioner (if at all), and nobody would want to stay on this 24/7.

And luckily, you don’t have to, since there are methods available for large numbers of images as well.

Today, all my slides are long digitized and I do not worry about the remaining black and whites – and I happily reproduce the occasional slide film in between.

 

Cost

It is fairly easy to spend 5 digit sums on scanning gear and indeed, good equipment cannot be had for free, but it is possible to get away cheaper, especially if the own camera kit already contains some of the necessary bits. It is more important to make up one’s mind regarding the required quality and the quantities. I will nevertheless try assess the cost when discussing the various methods.

 

Formats

This obviously determines everything. If you only have 35mm format, you live in a different world than somebody who owns medium format or even sheet film or glass plates. It may be advisable to use more than one method in parallel, which is what I did. For really large formats, there is no way around a flatbed scanner, which is less suitable for 35mm – more on that below.

 


Different Routes

Flatbed Scanners

Even many copiers have a scanning unit built in, these days. If it also has a transparency unit you are all set – in principle. At first sight, these are fascinating pieces of gear, you can print, send fax messages, heat your flat, brew coffee – and scan your collection of slides on top of that.

But clearly, the output quality is limited and the scan times are often endless. If you really have thousands of images to scan, just forget all flatbed scanners. The time required to feed the slides to the holder (four of them at a time, typically) and to start the next scan process clearly shows you don’t want to do that for the rest of your life. On top of that, scan times become longer and longer if you wish to use the available resolution of the thing. The nominal resolution of flatbed scanners is often impressively high (as are the resulting file sizes). The reality test however shows, that a flatbed scanner can hardly read what is in a 35mm slide. One does a little better than another one but in the end, they all fail to work well on small formats.

This does not mean that the resulting images don’t look nice, but to obtain a decent 20x30cm print from a flatbed scanned 35mm slide or a really nice 4K screen representation – rather not.

This looks a little different when medium format film is concerned. There, the achievable quality is high enough to meet all reasonable expectations (though at very long scan times), but even then, you need to accept that the film carries more information than the scanner is able to extract.

In return you get very simple processing. The software offered by the manufacturers (namely Canon) is pretty foolproof and way more usable than e.g. “Silverfast”.

Prices are moderate. A current (or recent) Canon model (8600, 8800, 9000) can be had for under 200 Euros new – and for a lot less used. When buying a used model, carefully check if current Windows drivers are available.

Who possesses large format film or glass plates (beyond medium format) has no real choice other than looking for an Epson flatbed or an old Canon 9900F.

 
+ Moderately priced, many second hand offers

+ Usable software

+ Scratches, color casts can often be removed automatically

+ Easy to use

+ Can work with larger film formats

+ Can work with exotic film formats if holders are available (or custom made)

- Needs desk space

- Makes noises

- Achievable resolution below that of the source material (more or less)

- Scan times can be incredibly long, depending on resolution and processing power

 

Film Scanners

This is the classic way to scan a film, as the name suggests. There is hardly any market left for new scanners or for those, from which good service can reasonably be expected for another while, and for older scanners there Is no support in the sense of drivers for later operating systems. It appears as if manufacturers have given up on this product category, even Nikon, who have made top-of-the-line products for many years. 

It is still possible to buy new (or like new) Nikon 9000 scanners for medium format or 5000 (for 35mm) but I would not recommend doing that, prices are out of this world. There are very few serious film scanners left new: Plustek 8200 or Reflekta RPS10M for 35mm which I do not know much about. For medium format, there is the Plustek Opticfilm 120 that I have intimate knowledge of and which surpasses both 35mm scanners in price, not only format.  

Indeed the Plustek 120 can extract what is in a piece of film. Still, working with it is not much fun, which is mainly due to the incredibly cumbersome and faulty Silverfast software and, to a lesser extent, because of its sensitivity towards film that does not lie flat. 

And like with flatbed scanners, long scan times should not bother you. A color scan from a 2x3” medium format slide takes roundabout one hour if optimum quality is the objective, even on a pretty fast computer – not a good choice for larger quantities.  

 
+ Can reproduce the resolution of the source material (depending on model)

+ Needs a little less space than a flatbed scanner

- Not for all film formats, or needs special adapters

- Sensitive if film material does not lie flat (most are)

- Makes noises

- Scan times can be incredibly long, depending on format and quality

- Can be pretty expensive

 

Reproducing slides from a slide projector

This method will not work without some Do-It-Yourself effort and also not without some care – and it only works for 35mm slides. What you need is a slide projector and a DSLR with a macro lens of longer focal length (to ensure a certain working distance between projector and camera).

First, the projector lens is removed and the DSLR camera positioned in front of it, looking inside the projector. Camera and projector need to be positioned such that the camera exactly captures the full frame of the slide in the projector – which takes some time. Once set up however, this method is very, very fast and well suitable to cope with any number of slides to be reproduced. One prerequisite is that all slides are positioned in landscape format. When that is done and if the projector even has a timer, this can be set to two seconds and you can fire away on the camera in the rhythm of the projector, and can finish a 50 slides magazine in two minutes.

Sure, there is work left to be done on the computer, but the better the setup was, the less work remains.

Depending on the kind of projector it is possible that the illumination of the slides is a little uneven. If that is the case, the “heat filter” (a thick piece of glass in the projector condenser housing) can be replaced by a frosted alternative made to measure by a local shop.

I recommend stopping down to only f4 or f5.6. If apertures f8 or f11 are used, the illumination again becomes uneven, because scratches etc. become visible as shadows.

Step-by-step instructions can be found on the web. While this certainly is very “home made”, the results are pretty good and should you already own a macro lens, it is certainly worth a try. 


+ very good even for very large quantities

+ „almost“ captures the source material resolution

- needs time for preparation and set-up 

- no automatic image processing (dust removal)

- only for 35mm slides


Scanning “in” a slide projector

This is about the series of „DigitDia“ slide scanners offered by Reflekta (and its derivatives sold under the “Braun “ name). Their price is relatively high but still a good alternative for 35mm slides. Scan times are again long but at least the thing can process a complete slide tray in one go, so that you can go to bed and check the results the next morning.

Quite commonly, such gear is purchased to scan the own slide collection and then resold with moderate loss. If you still have a – slower – method available to scan an occasional slide film, this is a good choice.

+ Very good even for very large quantities

+ Not cheap but can be easily resold

- „Almost“ captures the source material resolution

- Scratches, and dust can be removed automatically

- Only for 35mm slides


Reproducing film from a light panel

A very good method, which heavily depends on the resolution of the digital camera used. While dedicated film scanners were miles ahead only a few years ago, the resolution of (affordable) full frame DSLRs is a good match now. Even a Sony A7 or Canon 6D can capture all there is in a 35mm slide (well almost all…) - if equipped with a good macro lens. And you also get the option to adjust every single exposure via the live view histogram.

Naturally, the disadvantage is that there are no automatic image corrections available, for dust nor for scratches, and there still remains computer work anyway. While the act of photographing the slides is really quick (even for larger quantities), developing the raw files talks a long time on almost any computer.

Color negatives pose another restriction. While those can be reproduced just the same in principle, filtering away the orange mask and correcting the color is tedious and time consuming. I have made sure I had captured all color negatives in my possession with the film scanner, before eventually moving to this method entirely. 

A very nice aspect is that you are not limited to any film format, even if you wish to use the full resolution of the camera. Medium or large format images can be reproduced crop after crop and the resulting images mounted again with a panorama program later. I use an early version of „Autopano“ and the whole process works much better than it may sound.

For an occasional roll film this is very feasible and does not take longer than the process using a film scanner – at comparably good quality

+ Necessary gear sometimes present already

+ Can reproduce the resolution of the source material (depending on camera resolution)

+ Manual adjustments possible

- No automatic software corrections (e.g. dust removal)

- Considerable computer work necessary

 

Practical Advice

As can be gathered from the above, I have had mixed experiences with the various scan methods, while reproducing film from a light panel or from a slide projector turned out to be pretty successful. However this simple advice needs one cautious remark: Who really does not want to set-up and adjust gear and do some minor DIY every now and then, should rather invest in a of-the-shelf unit. Who has limited budget, should buy a used flatbed scanner. And who has very large numbers of slides, should look at a Reflecta Digitdia.

On the other hand, I think that who already owns a DSLR and a macro lens, should at least try using these and a light panel – the results can be surprisingly good, including the mounting of crops to a complete picture with high resolution.

The following table may also be of help, in which I have noted my assessment of the methods discussed. Red means a no-go, yellow stands for “yes with some reservations" – and green means go ahead…

(to top)